Auyuittuq, ᐊᐅᔭᐃᑦᑐᖅ, means ‘Land that Never Melts.’’ It is a unique arctic wilderness of ice caps, mountain peaks, deep valleys, and spectacular vistas. At the heart of the park is the massive Penny Ice Cap, whose radiating valley glaciers are still actively shaping the land. The glaciers flow down into the surrounding treeless valleys, where they melt into swift rivers that rush over the rock and tundra valley floors to the ocean. This powerful landscape reflects the Inuit belief that time is infinite.
The Akshayuk Pass is a 97 km ice-free trough that cuts through the mountains of Auyuittuq National Park and forms our travel route. Glaciers once filled it and helped carve out its deep U-shaped profile, characteristic of glacier-formed valleys. Today, the roar of rushing water, the sound of wind-blown sand, rocks falling down the steep face of a mountain and gravity persistently pulling glaciers downslope all serve to remind you that the geological history of the pass is still in the making, and we are small amongst the grandeur. Starting with our shortest expedition, and ending with a comparison table, keep reading to understand all of Black Feather’s amazing trip offerings in this incredible landscape!
Auyuittuq Quick Escape
The Auyuittuq Quick Escape is a suitable expedition for those who are reasonably fit, have some backpacking experience, and would like the benefit of a shorter trip and lighter pack. While we will still each carry some of the group food and equipment, because we are on the land for a shorter timeframe, the total weight will decrease compared to other, longer expeditions. On this amazing trip we will work our way up the Weasel River Valley towards Windy Lake, with the goal of getting a glimpse of Mount Thor. If conditions are optimal and we have a strong group, we might get further, either camping closer to Thor or doing a day hike further up the valley.
Close to the sea, the Weasel valley is broad and flat criss-crossed with small flows from the surrounding peaks and glaciers. The broad violet petals of River Beauty, a relative of fireweed, can often be seen here in the gravel bars created by past creeks.
Rounding the corner across from Tirokwa Peak (Inuktitut for “corner”) we may see the broad face of Thor peak hovering over the next valley corner. If we draw closer we may catch glimpses of Mt Sif (Thor’s Wife) & Mjolnir Peak (Thor’s Hammer). The immensity and unique features of these incredible mountains can only be fully appreciated when they are seen in person.
On our return it is common to take some time in an area known as the Rock Garden. Here, huge boulders, larger than cars and small cottages hide small tarns and wildflowers around each turn. It is like walking into another world.
The journey has challenges to test novice hikers and those new to the Arctic. Although overall elevation gain is modest, at less than 100m, the footing will often be uneven, and we will need to climb up and down over moraines composed of glacial till and cross several glacially freezing cold streams along the way. This is an excellent choice if you are looking to experience Auyuittuq in a shorter amount of time, or feel that a lighter pack would suit your hiking abilities.
Auyuittuq Getaway
The Auyuittuq Getaway is a more in-depth look at the Weasel River valley. Similar to the Quick Escape, the Getaway is also a suitable expedition for any reasonably fit hiker with some previous backpacking and camping experience. The biggest difference between these two trips is the length of time spent on the land, in addition to the weight of our packs. Also, on the Getaway the odds of seeing Mt. Thor are greater, as we will have more time hiking underneath it. Like during the Quick Escape, we will be ascending the incredibly beautiful Weasel River Valley towards Windy Lake. Along the way we may stay at some campsites for several nights and explore the surrounding area in a series of day hikes with light packs.
The first part of the route is the broad and flat extension of the fjord bottom that is criss-crossed with runoff from the surrounding peaks seeking the ocean. This disturbed ground is an excellent place to see many of the wildflowers of the Arctic.
One item of interest on the route is the Windy Lake Moraine. Climbing the moraine from our camp below provides inspiring views of Thor Peak from our southern vantage point with glimpses of Mt Sif (Thor’s Wife) & Mjolnir Peak (Thor’s Hammer). A hike beyond Windy Lake to view Mount Thor is a popular option. With a strong group and optimal conditions, it may be possible to continue past Windy Lake to the Thor shelter, before turning back and enjoying the return hike through this amazing landscape.
Akin to the Quick Escape, although overall elevation gain is modest, at less than 100m, the footing will often be uneven, and we will need to climb up and down over moraines composed of glacial till. Additionally, the challenge of crossing several glacially freezing cold streams along the way will have the group working together to proceed. This is an excellent excursion for hikers looking for a moderate length expedition, allowing for more time in this wonderful place without committing to the goal-oriented traverse.
Auyuittuq Traverse
The Auyuittuq Traverse trips are fantastic expeditions for a fit and adventurous hiker able to carry an expedition-weight backpack. These are the only backpacking trips we offer that experience the entirety of the Akshayak Pass (the ski traverse follows this route as well!) and are the longest backpacking trips we offer in the Park. We estimate the lightest possible pack on this trip would start at 50 lbs, with the average being 55-60 lbs. The packs get lighter as the trip progresses, but everyone must be able to carry all of their own personal gear as well as a few items of group food and/or equipment. Hikers should have previous experience on a multi-night hiking trip. We offer this expedition starting from both Qikiqtarjuaq and Pangnirtung, allowing you to choose the direction of travel through the Park. The ice generally breaks up first in the southern fjord, so we schedule our Pang-Qik traverse starting in July, for our arrival in the North Pangnirtung Fjord to coincide with good ocean ice conditions for our boat shuttle. In places the route is challenging with uneven footing, walking up and over glacial moraines, and there are too many stream crossings to count, but the efforts of this adventure are profusely rewarded.
This is an amazing hike. The Traverse crosses the Cumberland Peninsula between the North Pangnirtung Fiord and Pangnirtung Fiord, depending on the direction you choose, linking the full length of the Owl and Weasel River valleys. The northern “half” (65km) is much more remote and less travelled than the southern portions covered by the Quick Escape and Getaway. River crossings in the centre of the pass can vary significantly and may pose obstacles to progress. There are nine named river crossings with many additional smaller streams throughout the two valleys. The ground can vary underfoot from meadow to tussock, from trail to broken rock with some spongy-boggy footing thrown in!
As mentioned, there are rewards. Both access and egress from the park is by boat. Often, winds blow the last of the previous year’s sea ice into the sheltered bays along our route as Northern Fulmar glide around our boat to our trailhead and back to the northern community on the other side.
Once in the park, depending on our direction of travel, we will see the broad, previously glaciated, valley of the Owl giving way to the steeper “V” of the Weasel valley (north to south), or the other way around. Wildflowers abound in the park. Depending upon the season you will note Purple Saxifrage, Mountain Avens, Wooley Lousewort and Arctic Poppy.
Although the rugged terrain provides little provender for wildlife we still may see Gyrfalcon, Red Fox, Arctic Fox, Arctic Hare, or Ptarmigan along the way. Here some of the most imposing mountains remain unnamed in English.
We do of course pause along our route to take photos and admire the landscape before us. Although we plan a rest day mid-trip to take a side trip and treat our feet, often weather or river-levels are what necessitate our breaks. It is beautiful here without parallel, and spending almost two weeks on the land is an incredible opportunity.
**On all of Black Feather’s offered Auyuittuq hikes, please note that all hikers are required to bring poles and insulated shoes or booties for safety during stream crossings.
Auyuittuq Ski Traverse
The Auyuittuq Ski Tour is a challenging but incredible expedition suitable for a fit and adventurous skier with previous experience on a multi-night hiking or ski trip. We will be pulling pulks loaded with all our personal and group gear with starting weights around 40-50 kg, and work together to set up and take down camp each day. We will also enjoy the amazing camaraderie and shared experience of skiing in the Arctic!
The ski traverse begins in the northern community of Qikiqtarjuaq, with a long (and perhaps quite bumpy!) qamutik trip to the start of the ski. The qamutik is a specialized northern sled pulled by snowmobile. A unique approach! One benefit of the winter trip is it avoids the multitude of stream crossings of the backpacking trips, as it follows the rivers and lakes of the Akshayak Pass. Skiing for the most part will be along the frozen surface of the Owl and Weasel Rivers as this is where the light snows in this region tend to accumulate. Despite our enthusiasm for the trail ahead we will learn to move slowly to preserve energy and limit the amount of sweating into our base-layers in this colder environment. Often daytime temperatures hover around -7°C (19°F) perfect for skiing and (with an extra layer) breaks to have a warm drink or chat with colleagues. Wind is a constant companion in the pass, both summer and winter, and this affects the daytime travel temperatures, decreasing them significantly. We must be prudent with good winter self-care to be able to ensure our enjoyment and safety. For camping we will find some deeper, wind packed snow to level our tent sites, create some seating and perhaps small windbreaks. That is because as the sun descends so will the temperature. -20°C (-4°F) or less is common. But fear not! Our clothing, good cheer (and cooking stoves) will keep our communal kitchen/dining tent warmer than the outside temps (although still not “warm”) until it is time for bed. You may have the opportunity for unparalleled views of the stars and maybe even the aurora.
There are great advantages to seeing Auyuittuq at this time of year. Travel on the frozen rivers is more efficient than on the surrounding rugged valley sides. This is especially true if clear ice can be found to toboggan down the Weasel River riding on top of our pulks. The famous peaks of the Akshayuk Pass are visible and resplendent in their winter mantles. Yes, Thor Peak is even more imposing in winter.
The rugged terrain is a challenging place for most wildlife and sightings are rare. However, on our ski we will see the daily travels of the local wildlife recorded in the snow and may spot Arctic Fox on their daily rounds.
Our goal is Overlord Emergency shelter at the south end of the park where we will wait for our pick-up. Just as we entered the park from Qikiqtarjuaq by snowmobile and sled, we will now ride to Pangnirtung, taking our memory of this place with us.
We run each of these departures every season, with our most current dates and rates available here. Join Black Feather on an adventure of a lifetime, and experience the best trip for you in Auyuittuq National Park!
